Lagos de Covadonga travel guide: Asturias most beautiful lakes

Discover Picos de Europa and Lagos de Covadonga: tips, useful information, and photography spots

Asturias is one of the four Northern Spain autonomous communities. Located between Galicia and Cantabria, Asturias is one of the most popular summer travel destinations for Spanish people. Its mild but enjoyable summers and its long coastline might be related to this fact.

Yet, among foreigners, it is not still a very well-known area. While most people spend their time in Spain in Barcelona, Madrid, and Seville, the northern coast has a myriad of things to offer, especially for nature and adventure lovers. Oh, and one of the best culinary and gastronomical offers of the country (especially the Basque Country).

Things you should know before visiting Lagos de Covadonga

If you have included Lagos de Covadonga in your itinerary, well done! You will not regret it. Are you looking forward to a day in the middle of nature, surrounded by mountains and lakes? Well, before that, make sure to read carefully the following lines.

Where are Lagos de Covadonga located?

One of the main attractions of Asturias are Picos de Europa. This mountain range is shared between three autonomous communities: Castilla y León, Cantabria, and Asturias. Despite being a small mountainous area, even more, if compared to the Pyrenees, Picos de Europa has some of the best views of (northern) Spain.

Lagos (lakes in Spanish) de Covadonga is probably the most visited spot of Picos de Europa. Located at over 1,100 meters over sea level, it is one of the main starting points for hiking Picos de Europa. After seeing a couple of photos, you will understand why. However, getting to Lagos de Covadonga requires some planning, as getting there can be a bit tricky, especially during the summer months.

How’s the weather like in Lagos de Covadonga?

As a mountainous area, the first thing you have to know about Lagos de Covadonga weather is that it can change fast. A sunny day can turn into a foggy, misty, and cloudy day in a matter of minutes. If you are hiking, make sure to check the weather forecast, and be prepared.

However, as a general rule of thumb, depending on the season you can expect the following conditions:

• Winter: Snow, ice, cold weather and did I mention snow?
• Spring: Some snow, especially in the nearby mountains, mild-cold weather, rain
• Summer: Best seasn to visit the lakes. Warm but not too warm temperatures
• Autumn: First snowfall, cold weather, unpredictable rain.

How to get to Lagos de Covadonga?

The best way to move around in this area is by car. Due to the changing weather conditions, tricky roads, beautiful villages to visit… renting a car is probably the best option when planning how to visit Lagos de Covadonga.

The first step to get to the lakes is to drive to Cangas de Onís, a small yet very beautiful village that deserves a visit. Afterward, take the road that goes to Covadonga. Covadonga Lakes take the name from the Sanctuary located just at the end of the valley where the road to the lakes starts. This very well-known Sanctuary is a pilgrimage place, and you can expect hordes of tourists all year round. From there, the real road to Lagos de Covadonga starts. However,…

High-season road closure, buses and alternatives

Covadonga Lakes are located in the Picos de Europa National Park, and this comes with some regulations. The first one being that after its increase in popularity, nowadays it is not possible to get to Lagos de Covadonga whenever you want.

Due to the limited parking space at the lakes, during the high season, the road that connects Covadonga (the Sanctuary) with the lakes is closed from 8:30 am until 9 pm. Only authorized buses cover the route.

The road is closed on the following dates:

• From the 31st of May until the 17th of October (both included)
• From 27th of March until 4 of April
• All April and May weekends
• Some local festivities, like July 25th and September 8th
• The 1st of November (and the long weekend that comes with it)
• Fromt the 4th to the 8th of December

In fact, the buses leave from Cangas de Onís and stop at three parking lots located by the road that connects Cangas and Covadonga. Once at Covadonga it does its final stop before taking the road up to the lakes. The first bus to the lakes leaves at 9:30 am, and the last one from the lakes at 20:30 pm. It costs 9€ for the return bus, and the ticket can be used on any bus if there are free seats.

However, do not be disappointed about this. If you want to get to the lakes in your own car, keep reading!

How to get to Lagos de Covadonga by private car

Buses are not your thing? Do you want to stay in Lagos de Covadonga after 8:30 pm? Or maybe you are a photographer (like me) and you are looking forward to sunrise and sunset by the lakes.

It is still possible to get to the lakes in your own car. This is how:

• The simplest option is to visit during off-peak season, avoiding any of the dates mentioned above where the road is closed
• Another option is to wake up very early and get to Covadonga to take the road before 8:30 am. Once in Lagos, you can take your car and go back to Covadonga whenever you want, even whent eh road is only accesible by buses
• The final option is to wait until 9 pm to take the road. Although it sounds tempting, it is not the best option, see “Sleeping in Lagos de Covadonga” to find out why.

Noe that the road that you will be taking is full of curves, narrow sections and it is likely to find cows or other animals. Moreover, during the descent, you will find buses and taxis that cover the route. If you are not used to driving this might not be the best option for you.

Once in Lagos, there are two parking lots. The first one is by the first lake, and it is the easiest one to reach. However, the best one (and the one I parked in) requires taking a non-paved road up to the Mirador de Entrelagos area, by the second lake. The road can be driven with any car, but do not rush and take your time.

Sleeping in Lagos de Covadonga

After reading the section above you might think: Why not driving to the Lakes at 9 pm, sleeping there, and enjoying a beautiful sunrise by the mountains?

As tempting as it sounds, it is a bad idea. It is strictly forbidden to camp in the Picos de Europa National Park. The only exceptions, like in other National parks in Spain, are to be above 1400mts and to camp only from 8 pm until 8 am. None of this can be done in Lagos de Covadonga.

People still get there, seep in their vans and enjoy the sunrise. However, with a quick search online you can find hundreds of people who got fined for doing it. In fact, sometimes what the police do is just write down the license plate and forward the fine to the owners.

Yet, I managed to spend a night up in Lagos without getting in trouble. How? Well, I am a photographer, so I didn’t sleep. I was taking photos of the Milky Way and the stars. Unless you want to take beautiful Milky Way photos (see below for photography locations in Lagos de Covadonga), camp somewhere legal and drive up before 8:30 am.

What to pack for Lagos de Covadonga

Although it is a one-day trip, to fully enjoy your excursion to the lakes you will need some specific gear.

Picos de Europa is a mountain range, so you should be prepared for it. Hiking boots or sportive shoes are a must. Leave your sandals, high heels, and other options for the days by the sea. Even in summer, temperatures are not as warm as in the nearby area. A wind jacket or something waterproof should make the trick if you encounter a summer storm. In colder seasons, pack winter clothes, negative Celcius temperatures are usual.

Although it is technically possible to buy food at Picos de Europa, I recommend at least bringing some snacks and water. If you plan on spending the day there, remember to bring enough food. However, remember to bring all the leftovers and plastics with you.

What to see and do in Lagos de Covadonga

So, you made it! either by car, bus, taxi… you are at Lagos de Covadonga. Silence, peace… and maybe even snow, depending on the season! There are plenty of things to do, and I bet you can’t do them all in one single day.

Covadonga Sanctuary

The first place to visit in Lagos de Covadonga is not exactly by the lakes. As mentioned before, on the way up to the lakes there is Covadonga Sanctuary. It is one of the most important sanctuaries in Spain.

Despite the imponent church, the most important and sacred part of the complex is the Cave of Covadonga, free to visit, where there is a small chapel and a beautiful waterfall. The legend says that the Cave was used by soldiers as a refuge and hiding spot. However, there is more than one story, and there is not a strong consensus on the origin of the sanctuary.

Yet, it is worth spending one or two hours visiting the complex, its church, chapel, and other historical spots. In its pantheon, there are plenty of relevant tombs, such as Don Pelayo’s the first King of Asturias.

Lago de Enol

The first lake that you find when arriving at Lagos de Covadonga is Lago de Enol. This is the largest of the two lakes, and the deepest one (25mts). It is by this lake where the first parking is, and also where the bus leaves its passengers. Thus, any route around this area starts from Lago de Enol.

Walking by the lake is worth it, as especially on non-windy days, it creates a perfect mirror of the mountains that surround it. Yet, this is, in my opinion, only the second most beautiful lake.

Lago de Ercina

If you look for Lagos de Covadonga on google, you will find plenty of photos of Lago de Ercina. This smaller lake is located slightly higher than the first one and is surrounded by an impressive rocky mountain range. Being smaller and a bit more difficult to reach, it is probably the best place to relax and admire the beauty of Picos de Europa.

Nonetheless, to see the typical view of Lago de Ercina with a set of stairs that descend to it, you will need to hike up to the next spot.

Mirador de Entrelagos

Why choosing one lake when you can see both of them?

The Mirador de Entrelagos, in English, Between Lakes Viewpoint is exactly what its name announces: a viewpoint in the middle of the two lakes. From Lago de Ercina take the sone path that ascends to the right-hand side. After 5-10 minutes walking you will reach the viewpoint.

There are two iconic views from this area: the first one, the stairs that lead to Lago de Ercina. The second one, the view over Lago Enol, with the mountains reflected on the lake.

See the landscape photography section below for a more detailed overview of the best images that can be taken from the Entrelagos Viewpoint.

Chapel of the Good Shepard

From Lago de Enol, there is a non-paved road that leads to the Vega de enol Refuge and to the Chapel of The Good Shepard. This tiny chapel makes for a perfect short stroll from the parking.

Hikes

Picos de Europa is a really great place to hike and climb some mountains. From Lagos de Covadonga there are many possible one-day or multiple-day hikes that can be done. Check pages like Wikiloc for detailed tracks.

Lagos de Covadonga for landscape photography

As a landscape photographer, Lagos de Covadonga is one of the most beautiful places to capture in Northern Spain. There are almost endless photography opportunities, especially at sunrise, sunset, and night.

Panorama of the two lakes

From the Mirador de Entrelagos, it is possible to capture a panoramic view of the two lakes with the mountains behind. This is probably one of my favorite photos, and it is also possible to take it at night with the milky way over the two lakes.

The classical view of Lago de Ercina

From the same viewpoint, there is the most photographed view of Lagos de Covadonga. The stone stairs are the perfect foreground for an amazing view of the lake and the Picos de Europa.

Milky Way and star trails

Photographing the Milky Way in Northern Spain is quite difficult. Not many clear skies and a lot of light pollution. However, one of the exceptions for the second problem is Picos de Europa. There are endless Milky Way compositions at Lagos de Covadonga, and if you look on Instagram, you will find many amazing photos.

In winter, where the galactic center visibility is limited in the northern hemisphere, conditions are perfect for star trail photography.

Reflections

Wherever there is a lake, there is a reflection. In this case, luck plays a huge factor. On any non-windy day, reflections in any of the two lakes can be used to create amazing photos.

Lagos de Covadonga is a must one-day trip for anyone visiting Northern Spain. It is worth either paying for the bus or waking up early to drive all the way to the lakes.

If you like traveling, consider following me on Instagram (@aniolvisuals), for regular travel and landscape photography content. For any other inquiries, feel free to contact me at hello@aniolvisuals.com.